Trotanoy (pronounced trot-an-wah) sits atop the plateau in Pomerol, the small appellation of Bordeaux’s Right Bank, known for making tiny quantities of Bordeaux’s finest (and often, most expensive) red wines. Like its neighbours, Petrus, Lafleur and Le Pin, it makes stunningly rich and complex wines that will age for an eternity and are extremely difficult to acquire.
The history of Trotanoy goes back to the 1760s when it was owned by the Giraud family. Originally it was named “Trop Annoi” which was medieval French for too annoying to be bothered with. It took its name from the gravelly soils which were difficult to till and work. Before the 1900s there were 25 hectares at Trotanoy, now there are just 7.6 as parcels were sold off over the years. In 1953 it was bought by Ets. Jean-Pierre Moueix, easily the most notable vignerons in St. Emillon and Pomerol. The Moueix family truly put the region of Pomerol on the map in the first half of the 20th century by developing a market for the regions wines in Belgium and Britain. The roster of Moueix wines is a Who’s Who of the Right Bank: including Petrus, Hosanna, Latour-a-Pomerol and La Fleur-Petrus in Pomerol and Magdelaine and Belair Monange In St. Emillion. The Moueix family also owns Dominus, one the top wines of California (see our article here).
The vineyard at Trotanoy is planted 90% to Merlot and 10% to Cabernet Franc. The top of the vineyard possesses the most gravelly soils which are mixed with clay. As you move down the gentle slope the soils transition to deep black clay loaded with “machefer” or iron pan. Moueix says it is the presence of this iron that gives Trotanoy its distinctively masculine or powerful quality and helps to account for the wine’s complexity. The average age of the vines is roughly 35 years with several plots well over 60 years of age. The age of the vines is unusual in Pomerol as the freeze of 1956 wiped out most of the plantings of the region. Trotanoy, with its deep clay soil was largely spared.
Like all the Moueix properties, viticulture at Trotanoy is meticulous. To attain perfect ripening of the fruit the Moueix team makes numerous passes through the vineyard for pruning, regular ploughing, crop-thinning, leaf removal and manicuring. Entirely harvested by hand, the grapes are de-stemmed (a practice employed since 1980) and then fermented in small, temperature controlled concrete vats. Aging is in 50% new oak for approximately 18 months. The amount of new oak and time in barrel are adjusted to best bring out the character of each individual vintage.
The result are wines of hedonistic delight that require long aging and combine power, complexity and the quintessential Pomerol quality of an extravagantly plush mouthfeel. Jeff Leve of the International Wine Cellar has said of Trotanoy “The top vintages of Trotanoy can easily be described, as pure decadence in a glass. 2009 Trotanoy is on track as the best vintage of the modern era! It is a Pomerol wine so decadent, Caligula would have liked it. “
Birthdays are special occasions in our house and we recently made a birthday that much more special by opening a bottle of 2000 Trotanoy!
2000 Chateau Trotanoy
Still dark garnet in colour, slight fade at the rim. Gorgeous nose of plum, blackberry, minerals and earth. With some swirling we were able to coax out some spice notes and a touch of mint. The palate is huge. Intense flavours of blackfruits are joined by mocha, baking spices and particularly on the finish, a deep earthy flavor. Tannins are still present, though not obtrusive, and combined with the acidity on the finish this remains a structured wine, just entering maturity and barely half way through life. One of the more masculine Pomerols, but it is absolutely delicious.
Extraordinary
Recent Comments